Vivid purple. Deeply pitched cherry, dark berry preserve and licorice aromas pick up smoky mineral, olive and floral notes with air. Chewy and penetrating on the palate, offering concentrated, mineral-drenched bitter cherry, blackberry, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily and turn sweeter with air. Shows solid grip and resonating minerality on a wonderfully long, smoky finish that echoes the dark berry and licorice notes. This is all Chaillot fruit, Gilles told me.

96 Josh Raynolds, Vinous