As always with fine Burgundy, red or white, use a large well-shaped glass, and don’t overfill it (this limpid, soft yellow-gold Puligny-Montrachet is Burgundy, after all, and another textbook example of how fine wine evolves over time after it’s poured). The nose unfurls like a peacock’s tail, with aromas of salted Seckel pears, ripe white peaches, and Marcona almonds moving in and out of the foreground, sometimes suggesting dried honeycomb, grated nutmeg, parsley, and lime blossoms as the nose develops over time. On entry, the wine is impressively concentrated, at the same time delicately textured and languid, with an overriding impression of freshness and self-confident elegance. Ample, focused flavors of roasted hazelnuts and applewood smoke seasoned with palpable briny minerality, echo and magnify the beautiful stone fruit nose, and the wine remains firm, fresh, and vibrant.