If the French have bistro wine, then the Italian equivalent must surely be trattoria wine: a light, fresh, all-purpose libation that you would expect to be served from a carafe in a homey little family-run joint along a winding country road. That is, in fact, how Kermit discovered Tenuta la Pergola: he found the contents of that fateful carafe worth the detour to visit the estate in the Monferrato, Piedmont’s rustic heartland of rolling hills where the vine is king. That visit resulted in this custom Piemontese blend, an adaptable bargain rosso with regional character and the ability to quench one’s thirst whenever needed.