As the name suggests, the 2013 Champagne Blanc De Blancs D'Ay Brut is entirely from the Grand Cru village of Ay and opens to a very pretty bouquet of lemon curd, marzipan, honeycomb, and golden peaches. The palate gives off a jolt of energy, with its richness coming into focus in tandem with an electric tension of acidity, a pinpoint mousse, and a long, crystalline finish. It’s a superb and attention-grabbing wine that awakens the senses, and it has the structure to be enjoyed over the coming 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040. Disgorged October 2023.

94 Pts Jeb Dunnuck